I have a feeling that if I were to get up out of my chair, walk outside, and ask the first 20 people I met what they considered to be the trademark "food of the South," I'd get a fairly wide variety of answers. One might say biscuits and gravy, another fried chicken, and the next fried catfish (we do a fair amount of frying down here). I'd bet, however, that the majority would offer an answer consisting of three ubiquitous letters: BBQ. (Or barbecue? We'll go with BBQ because it's my blog, and it's easier to type.) You know what? I'm with them. I cannot think of a single dish that varies so greatly from state to state, and even from region to region. There is almost nothing about BBQ that isn't reliant on the cook's interpretation. Even the protein itself is up for debate. North Carolinians (and traditionalists) will tell you that the only true BBQ is "whole hog," where the entire pig is smoked and combined before eating. Texans don't even use pork, opting instead for beef brisket. In Kentucky, they use mutton. Sauces bring an even hotter debate. Some say good 'Q needs nothing, others claim it ain't BBQ unless it's sauced. I won't go into a big historical discussion covering all the various nuances of regional BBQ here. If you happen to be interested in that, a great account can be found here. My intention for this entry is to prove that anyone can produce restaurant-quality BBQ in their own backyard with a few simple tools and some know-how.
Before we begin, I think it's important to establish a few ground assumptions. So here goes:
- BBQ ≠ Grilling. BBQ is prepared using indirect heat and smoke. Grilled foods are cooked quickly over direct heat. BBQ'ing requires more time, attention, and skill than does grilling. Please don't confuse the two.
- BBQ = pork. Regional nuances aside, pig meat is the generally accepted protein of choice when BBQing. Here's why: the very tradition of BBQing came from poverty. Poorer southerners (typically slaves) couldn't afford beef, so the readily available pig was their best option. Along the way, some of them figured out that if the fattier parts of the pig (the shoulder specifically) were cooked over low heat for an extended period of time they transformed from tough and sinewy to tender and juicy. Modern BBQ was born.
Ok, we've laid the foundation. Here are a few tools you will need:
- A grill. Most American backyards/porches are equipped with a grill of some kind, be it gas or charcoal. I used a Weber "kettle" for my BBQ, and this walkthrough will reflect that. It is possible to BBQ using a propane grill as well. Instead of using charcoal, just use your burner as the heat source.
- Wood. The deep smoky flavor of good BBQ is a product of the type of wood used by the cook. Traditional pork applications use hickory, but fruit woods such as apple are common as well. I chose hickory. Most hardware stores will sell you a big bag of wood chips for around 6 bucks. I used both wood chunks and chips so that I had good smoke throughout the cooking process. If you have access to natural wood, use it, but be careful to check for mold, mildew, or other potentially nasty spots on your wood. Also, stay away from pine and other sappy woods, as they will leave a bitter flavor on the meat and make your diners think you smoked your pork using an old dresser. I just play it safe and buy my wood from the store.
- A thermometer. The most indispensable item in a BBQer's toolkit is an accurate thermometer. Heat control is vital - too much heat and you're grilling, which will make a fatty pork shoulder chewy and tough. Too little and you're in the "danger zone" and running the risk of bacterial infection. The sweet spot for BBQing is between 200 and 250. You won't know you're there unless your grill is equipped with a thermometer, preferably one located at or around the cooking position. You'll also need a meat thermometer to check for doneness. This one isn't quite as vital, but if you're a perfectionist (like me) knowing when you hit 190 degrees will tell you exactly when your pork is done. Spend the 15 bucks and get a good, reliable digital instant-read thermometer.
As always, we begin in the grocery store. You'll want to pick up a cut from the shoulder, and it should be labeled as "pork shoulder" or "Boston Butt." No, I don't know why a shoulder cut is called a "butt." Figure on each diner eating 1/2lb of meat - a 10lb butt can feed 15-20. See why this is so popular with low income brackets? At home, take your pork out of the wrapper and pat it down with your rub of choice. I'll post the one I used at the bottom, but a store-bought rub will work as well. Just spend a little extra and get one with some pedigree, like Rendezvous. Be generous with the rub. Cover as much of the meat as possible, and pat (not rub, ironically) it onto the meat. Wrap everything in plastic wrap and stash it back in the fridge. This should be done at least 24 hours before cooking.
Home-cooked BBQ is not a last-second endeavor. You will need to allow yourself around 8-10 hours of cooking time. Chill out - this doesn't mean you'll be standing over the flame poking at the meat for that long. Fatty cuts (like our pork) need to cook for an extended amount of time so that the collagen and fats can break down properly. Fill a chimney starter about 3/4 of the way with charcoal, light up, and give the coals about 15 minutes to get warm. They should all have a gray, ashy coating on them. Next, set up your grill for 2-zone indirect cooking. Bank the coals to one side of the grill, place your wood of choice directly on the coals, and put a metal container (a small bread pan is perfect) with a couple of cups of water in it on the other side of the grill. The water, called a drip pan, will help to modulate the heat, making it easier to keep from overcooking the meat. Lid up, open the vent 1/4 of the way, and let the heat settle in around 225-250. Don't put the meat on until your grill is at the proper temperature.
Once the correct temperature rolls around, place the pork directly over the drip pan. Lid up, and walk away. Go mow the lawn, clean some dishes, or read. Resist the urge to lift the lid every ten minutes and poke things. As long as you start with the right temperature, checking the heat once per hour is plenty. If the it drops to around 200, add another prepared coal or two. If the smoke runs out, toss another wood chunk on the fire. Keep the heat between 200-250 and things will be just fine. As noted before, this is a long process. The pork needs to be smoked for at least four hours to develop good smoky flavor and bark (the dark exterior part that BBQ lovers crave.) After that, you can remove it from the grill, wrap it in foil, and finish it off in a 250 degree oven. Internal doneness will depend on how you plan to prepare your 'Q. It'll be sliceable at around 170 degrees, but let it get to around 190 and you'll have pork fit for pulling. Once you hit 190, move your pork from the oven to a cooler, close the lid, and let it rest for an hour or until dinnertime. Don't worry, it'll stay warm for hours in there. When you're ready to serve, pull the meat using two upside down forks with the tines opposite each other. Serve on a bun (Wonder Bread brand is perfect) topped with homemade coleslaw and BBQ sauce. Finally, sit back and absorb the adulation of your diners as they rave about your pitmaster-quality 'Q. Seriously, this is one of those dishes that really impresses people when it's done right.
See below for the rub recipe I used, as well as recipes for slaw and bbq sauce.
"Memphis Dust" Rub
- 3/4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
- 3/4 cup white sugar
- 1/2 cup paprika
- 1/4 cup kosher salt
- 1/4 cup garlic powder
- 2 tablespoons ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons ground ginger powder
- 2 tablespoons onion powder
- 2 teaspoons rosemary powder
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix with a fork. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months. Experiment with added ingredients to expand the flavor (chili powder, ground mustard, etc.)
"Sweet Heat" BBQ sauce
- 2 tbsp EVOO
- 1/2 onion, roughly chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 3 strips smoked bacon
- 5-7 sprigs thyme
- 2 cups ketchup
- 1/4 cup molasses
- 1/4 cup brown sugar
- 1 chipotle pepper with adobo sauce
- 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 tbsp cumin
- 1 tbsp paprika
- 1/2 tbsp chili powder
- 1/2 tbsp powdered mustard
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 1/2 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
- 3 cups bottled BBQ sauce
Heat oil over medium in a large saucepan or medium pot. While oil is warming, wrap the bacon strips around the thyme sprigs and secure with kitchen twine. Place the bacon-thyme bundle into the oil and cook until bacon renders. Add the onion and garlic and cook until browned. Add remaining ingredients except for bottled BBQ sauce, bring to a simmer, and allow to cook for an hour. Remove bay leaf and bacon-twine bundle and move sauce to a blender. Add bottled BBQ sauce and puree until smooth. Run sauce through a sieve to remove any remaining chunks. Bottle and sell for $6.00 each.
Delicious Coleslaw
- 1 bag coleslaw mix
- 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise
- 2 tbsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 1/2 tsp kosher salt
- 1/2 tsp pepper
- 1 tbsp Memphis Dust
- 1 tbsp adobo sauce (from canned chipotle peppers)
- 2-3 tbsp sugar, to taste
Combine all ingredients except sugar and coleslaw mix in a large bowl with a whisk. Add sugar until coleslaw base is sweet enough for you. Toss in coleslaw mix, adding more mayonnaise to increase creaminess. Chill before serving.
